Recommended Procedure to Install Klauer "K" Gutter

1. Determine amount of material needed. Follow these recommendations:

   1. Gutter	Measure building including overhang to determine the number of 10 ft. lengths required.
   2. End Pieces	One for every 30 ft. of gutter.
   3. Miters (Corners)	Check building for number of inside and outside corners.
   4. Slip Connectors	One for each section of gutter. One for each end piece with outlet. One for each miter.
   5. End Caps	One for each right hand end of gutter. One for each left hand end of gutter.
   6. Gutter Spikes	One for every 2 ft. of gutter.
   7. Ferrules	One for every 2 ft. of gutter.
   8. Easyon Hangers	Four for every 10 ft. of gutter.
   9. Fascia Brackets	Four per 10 ft. section of gutter (used in place of Easyon or Spikes and Ferrules).
   10. Downspout	Check footage from gutter to ground plus overhang times the number of end sections with outlet to determine number of 10 ft. lengths.
   11. Elbows	Three Style A for every end piece with outlet. Use Style B where water is to come off of the side of the downspout.
   12. Downspout Holders	Two for each 10 ft. section of downspout.
   13. Gutter Sealant	One tube of Klauer Sealant for every 100 ft. of gutter.
   14. Touchup Paint	One can.
   15. Downspout Water Diverter	One for each end piece with outlet (in place of bottom elbow).
   16. Screws and/or Pop Rivets	A few sheet metal screws and/or pop rivets depending on the size of the job.

2. Remove old gutter, if necessary, and check facia board for dry rot or any deterioration. Paint facia board if necessary.
3. Carefully mark all joists. This can be determined by where the facia is nailed. Mark these in such a way so you can see them when installing spikes and ferrules. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE SPIKE BE DRIVEN IN A JOIST - NOT JUST THE FACIA BOARD.
4. Carefully check the facia for level. You must be sure your gutter will properly drain. If your facia is level, it is perfectly all right to install your K Gutter level - looks better and drainage will be adequate to do the job. If you feel the gutter should slop toward the outlets, then allow no more than one inch per 30 feet.
5. TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION.

   1. Hack saw (very fine tooth blade) to cut face of gutter and conductor pipe (downspout).	7. File to smooth cut edges.
   2. Steel tape measure.	8. Tin snip (to cut back of gutter).
   3. Screw driver.	9. Drill with bit to match pop rivets or sheet metal screws.
   4. Hammer.	10. Pop rivet gun (if using rivets).
   5. Level - as long as possible.	11. Pair of pliers.
   6. Vise grip pliers (very handy for holding piece when drilling).	12. Pair of saw horses and a couple of long planks to work on will help.

6. If your gutter is no more than 30-35 ft., assemble completely on the ground; install miter, end caps, slip connectors and end piece (drop outlet). Be sure your drop outlet is in the correct location. Apply sealant generously to the inside of the gutter, miter or end section. Then slip the connector or end cap over the sealant and smooth excess material over the joint area.
7. If you are working alone, a good suggestion is to drive a gutter spike into the facia upon which to rest one end of the gutter while fastening the other. When one end is fastened, you can then remove the spike and fasten the other end.
8. Install the section of gutter, using some galvanized shingle nails, three feet apart or so to align and fasten the back of the gutter to the fascia. When adjusted properly with your marks on the fascia then proceed to install the gutter spikes and ferrules in every other joist (as marked) or about 32" apart - be sure you have one close to the end of the gutter. Check your joints, apply more sealant if you feel necessary.
9. If your run is longer than 30-35 ft., it will be necessary to section as per step No. 6. Install a slip connector between handle in no more than two sections. Make up second section as per step No. 6. Install a slip connector between the two sections, rivet or sheet metal screws as before and follow step No. 8.
10. If your building has an overhang, place an elbow on the drop outlet, measure from this elbow to one held on wall of hose, allowing about 3 inches to insert pipe and/or elbows and cut downspout to fit. All downspout pieces and elbows must be inserted so water will drain through. Drill two holes in conductor pipe and elbows when connected and use sheet metal screws to fasten. Measure length of downspout necessary to reach about 6" above ground level. Cut accordingly and fit on upper elbow and place another elbow on bottom to lead water away from foundation. Downspout holders should be used to hold downspout in position.
11. Touch up heads of gutter spikes and nicks with spray enamel.

Alternate Methods of Installation

• Facia Bracket

  Facia brackets are widely used and highly recommended for Style K gutter installation. To use facia brackets it will be necessary to snap a line designating the bottom of the gutter. Then install facia brackets on a 48" center using three 2" screws per bracket and being sure they are installed on the joists, as per step No. 2. Once the facia brackets are installed, it is only necessary to assemble the gutter as per step No. 6 and hook the back of the gutter under the small hooks on the facia bracket and then install the spring clips over the front of the gutter.

• Style K Easyon Hanger

  When the facia of the house is undercut or slanted, then K Easyon Hangers should be used. These should be installed on the gutter following step No. 6 and placed about 32" apart and nailed under the shingles into the rafters with 2" or 2-1/2" galvanized nails. At least two nails per hanger should be used.